Sunday, 13 November 2016

Weekend roadtrip to Crystal Beach Resort, Zambales

A leap of faith, a thrilling jump into the unknown, that was what made my heart race since 5:00am on Saturday morning. A Couchsurfer was winging a roadtrip to Zambales, north of Manila, and he invited up to 11 people that could join him on the weekend camping trip to Crystal Beach Resort for  less 1000PHP gas money per person. The pickup time was at 7:00am, a walkable distance from where I was staying. Although on time due to my nervous nature, the van and some of the participants arrived around 7:20am, and some even needed to be picked up at their residence. To be honest that family were the most irritating participants in term of punctuality. The group of 9 adult and a forever pouty 8 year old girl fit snugly in the 11 seats van, with tents and bare necessities.

We drove north through Quezon City, to catch the North Luzon Expressway out of Manila by 9:00am, and we were soon zipping through the countryside, with rice paddies being labored, and lush greens.
Rainy clouds on the horizon when leaving Clark
Toll fees and an idea of towns reachable by the Expressway
We drove past Clark which had an airport, and an Emirates add that advertized a daily flight to Dubai, amidst rainy clouds overhead. It even rained a bit during our approach to Subic bay. After 2h30 drive I asked for a restroom break at the entrance of Subic, where we all stretched our legs. We were getting somewhat comfortable with each others, casually and carefully probing our origins, interests and sense of humour to establish a common ground. It was somehow easy though as we were all avid travellers and had many anecdotes to share. The host or event organizer was very playful and chatty and made everyone at ease. He even brought tents for some of us who didn't have one.

The weather in Subic, a former US military base, was sunny and we had to drive through on a single road in and out of town, zigzaging between jeepneys, tricycles, craft trolleys and bad traffic. The road was busy with small resorts hotels catering to families, so it was also full of small food joints on both sides.
Subic bay

Tricycle loaded with craft/utensils
Color coded Jeepneys
We admired the bay borded by mountains, and stole a view of some of the resorts close to the road to give us an idea of our destination. It was everybody's first time going to Crystal Beach resort. And once we saw the first big sign advertising it, we were all excited and admired the small village and small road that led to the place. The resort is accessible by bus, which stops on the main road, and a tricycle can be taken/hired to drive for 15min to the resort from the main road.
After checking in, we walked to the camp site along the partially covered corridor that led to the beach. Just the idea of being at the beach was refreshing, and feeling the gentle swooshing of the sand when walking made us all closer somehow as we escaped the pollution and hustle of Manila.
Central corridor between reception and the beach
View from the campsite. After the trunk, the beach and Pacific ocean
We set up tents, checked out the beach and went back to the resort restaurant across the reception area for some food. It was almost 2:00PM and we were all starving. I discovered some Filipino food, such as lechon, buko pandan (coconut and pandan dessert), bulalo steak and kalamansi juice. I was most excited to swim and try surfing after lunch, wich was probably not the wisest move.

In any case we all moved to the beach, doing an awkward crossing on hot sand for the few feet separating the camping site and the ocean. The water was warmer than expected, and the waves no higher than 4feet. A group of beginners in their yellow rash-guards were trying out their new skills, some more successful than other at catching waves.


By 4:30PM I was pestering the surf school to teach me, despite having finished lunch at 2:30PM. I was afraid the weather would cool down as soon as the sun set. I managed to catch 3 waves standing and surfing, among the maybe 15 waves the instructor (Christopher) set me up for. On the unsuccessful rides, I would be one knee up or almost standing before being thrown in the water loosing balance. I also managed to hurt my lower back, which I presumed was due to the lack of warming up my muscles body parts.

Another couchsurfer also joined me and she definitely had more surfing skills or experience than me. We had a good laugh waiting for waves no bigger than ripples, and enjoyed the thrill of riding a few waves. It stays as a good memory, especially with someone I have just met that same morning.

Eventually the sun set and lent its orange colours to the horizons and skies, but the temperature stayed high and we could not rest or change into the tents. instead we lied down near the water, enjoying the couples doing photoshoots and making hilarious poses with the camera.

campsite in sunset
After much deliberation and regrouping all the couchsurfers, we went out of the resort to find authentic village food outside, and drove through 2 towns before coming back to the resort town and grab filipino food. After all there were only 3 foreigners in the group and it was the perfect opportunity to get local recommendations. So most of us got bulalo soup, which was a huge bowl of beef soup, with a big portion of tender beef and bone marrow seeping in its broth.
Happy campers

Drank 2 of these

On the way back, the other surfer girl got rhum (captain morgan) from 711, and thus started hours of drinking, chatting and laughing outside our gathered tents. No mosquitoes would dare fly around us, and from time to time some tents would be seen move by themselves in the dark towards the ocean to catch a breeze. In our inebriated states, those tents looked like supernatural events or funny gags. When out of Cola, we ventured towards the resort's restaurant to buy a bottle (that I bought back form the trip), not without getting distracted by the music and fire dance happening at a team building event on the next campsite across the corridor.
Fun light trace of fire when long exposure
A fire jump rope on long exposure
 We were still feeling so hot because of the heat and alcohol we gave up building a bonfire. Luckily for us, the resort had a huge bonfire at the first campsite, and we were glad to just hang around it and be hypnotized by the dancing flames, while hugging a bag of ice cubes collected from the restaurant for our cocktail...
Back with the group we drank some more and before I knew it, I crashed in my tent while the others tried to go dancing at the team building next door. I laughed and Jo the surfing girl when she said it would freeze if it rained. But while the alcohol started to seep into my blood around 1:30am, I started feeling cold at 26C...and had to wear the fleece jacket I brought just in case! I slept in my fleece and covered by my beach blanket until I woke up beaten up by the sand beneath me (forgot to level it flat).

At 6:30am, the air was fresh in the campsite. On the beach the sun was just starting to heat up the sand, and there were so many couples again doing photoshoots. It was as if they only came to take pictures. I spaced in the shade of a hut, looking at the ocean and the multiple photoshoots, wondering if I would have gone crazy as well if I came as a couple. Then around 7:am I changed into my swimming suits (baywatch red hanging in the picture above) and swam in a much cooler ocean when the spaniard kept the hut for us. After a nice exercise, we lied down in the shades of the hut, enjoying the ocean breeze, the relatively quiet beach, before people with swag put their boombox on.

By 7:30am being in the sun required sunscreen and a hat. So I slept some more with my head in the shades, while drying my swimming suit in the sun.

Eventually as the campsite stirred up and people started to pack, I had to head back and pack as well. My tent mate was cutely eating his cookies as breakfast and I tried not to rush him before folding the tent. I don't even know when he came in to sleep. I also ate my cookies and drank my water bottle and we were off on the road to reach Olongapo city to drop off the Spaniard at the bus terminal, on his journey north.




We ate at the mall, took some time to gather together again as everyone got spread out, to finally regroup in the van. By 1PM we dropped off Gustavo (Guiller for real) and drove back to Manila. Everyone was digesting and soon fell in a long food coma, followed by motor induced sleep. I barely woke up before Clark airport, even being seated in the back seats where the suspension were inexistent and felt like riding a horse.

We then dropped off Ray in Marilao, an got stuck in traffic between Quezon city and Makati. We saw the fumes of the fire that destroyed hundreds houses in Mandaluyoung.

Eventually we arrived safe and sleepy back at the Petron station at 4:45PM, where it felt like we all were trying to awkwardly act like strangers again because were back at the city. There were talks of exchanging facebook accounts, emails and rushed goodbyes. I walked back to my room, took a shower and slept.

It was fun meeting strangers on a trip. I wish it would always be this safe. I would join the next expedition if the organizer plans another one.







Sunday, 6 November 2016

Climbing a volcano, a small one in the middle of lake Taal

Climbing a volcano can be on one of those lists that can be daunting to do. But I got brave when I read it would take about 1h to climb. So I settled to trek the Taal volcano, which last erupted in 1977.

I booked a car with driver (Anthony) with a local travel agency online (Filipino Travel Center) 48h before the trip. It was convenient because it was last minute and I still had time to get security clearance. On Sunday 7:50am  the driver arrived to pick me up from the trip. I wanted to start at 8:00am. The day was fresh and blue skies were disagreeing with the weather forecast (cloudy with thunderstorms).

We drove fast out of Makati and out of Manila, underneath the expressway, passing multiple shopping centers and their epty parking lots. We passed by Santa Rosa Laguna,  and drove up through Talisay (province of Batangas), to reach Tagaytay around 9:15am. After a dizzying drive down a steep road, we arrived at our resort, where after check in, a boatmaster (Nato) gave me a lifejacked to embark on his boat.

Interceptor

We sped on water, bow up in the air, flying on a motorized fishing boat for about 30min, on a glass mirror lake. The first mountain evoked an extincting volcano, hiding the fact that there are 3 volcanoes on the island.
Taal lake and volcanic island
Boatmaster Nato at the helm

The lake had many islands but the volcanic island was the most popular.
View from Tagaytay
On the island, a small community of 5000 inhabitants and growing are living without electricity, depending on what the land grows, tourism and fishing. As soon as the boat moored, I was invited to stay on the boat to take a picture, which they printed within 5min. Then a horse ride was suggested, which I refused since the whole point was to walk. The horses were small pony sized horses. The trail was dirt trail but as it was early and it rained the night before, there was no use for the face mask they brandished around.

The fresh air and fresh manure accompanied me along the trek up, with little shade to shield from the sun. A hat, sunscreen, umbrella and water are the best accessories, along with a camera. My guide Nato wore flip flops and walked so fast we barely exchanged words at the beginning. I finally asked him to slow down when we arrived towards the top, as the slope got steeper and we were passing through volcanic activity with fumes coming out of the warm ground.

At the top, the pretty sulfuric lake was brightly shining and glistening in the midday sun, contrasting with the lush green vegetation surrounding it. In the shades, it was good to rest and fan myself with local craft, while debating whether to get fresh coconut juice.
I didn't debate long and forgot myself in the scenery and the fresh coconut juice. Did you spot the island in the middle of the lake? I was on an island, which had a lake with an island volcano, which also had a lake and a tiny cute island in the middle...

There are still some fumes on the edges of the crater, and water can be seen boiling below in the lake, enough to make one sweat again. The sulfuric lake was pristine, without boat or fishing activity.

Strangely enough, there were vendors calling out for golf players, as if there were a 18-hole golf course nearby. I suppose a mini golf and a pose with the lake as background would be a nice photo op. But it was time to walk down as the sun was starting to burn, and there were a lot of tourists coming up on their valiant small steeds.

The ride back to the small resort dried my t-shirt, and gave me another view and lighting on the scenery.
And a meal in a nice wooden gazebo was the perfect pick me up from the heat and exhaustion: steamed tilapia, chop suey vegetables, chicken adobo, and rice.

 It was the perfect time and place to have a nap, but the tablecloth got invaded by thousands of micro ants, which became visible as soon as the waiter took away the plates and food. After a bit of rest I wanted to drive back leisurely while admiring the landscape of pineapple farms and side roads stalls. The region was known of its pineapple farms after all.



Taking the expressway from Santa Rosa Laguna, we quickly arrived back to the hotel mid-afternoon, and gave me enough time to enjoy the rest of the day resting and enjoying the stormy skies over Manila. It was an enjoyable day trip, providing fresh air and mental rest out of the city. And I learned a few more words in Tagalog.






Saturday, 5 November 2016

Salcedo market, food fest etc...

This market was highly recommended by colleagues and guidebooks alike, and I am glas I visited it whenever I manage to wake up early. It is a parking space during the weekdays, and filled with stalls selling foods, goods from independent grocers and farmers, nearby restaurants, etc...
One entrance with a guard doing bag check

Surrounded by high rise buildings

There are a lot of freshly grilled and fried food, but also proper cooked meal that can be enjoyed in the middle of the market.
Grilled seafood and fish
Grilled meat
Of course there are butcher and fresh fish produce as well. But the fun of it is discovering local specialties.
Rice cakes with sometimes stuffings, wrapped in leaves
Salted eggs and dried fish
Pigeon dishes
Something to quench your thirst in the heat
There are some local crafts as well but mainly it is for food and maybe spices and grains etc. I got some pancake mix with 'ube', which is purple sweet potato (vomanga in Malagasy). It was fun to check out the fruit stalls as well, and I got myself some papaya.
Strawberries and durian, pineapples
Papayas
Dragonfruit and soursap

Pretty grocer's display
It will take many visits to taste all the stalls, and I hope I can come over when I am not traveling.

Tita Bambi is sooo right


And with that a Saturday morning is well spent.

Wednesday, 2 November 2016

'Ber' months in the Philippines

ALl Saints day was quite a big holiday and there were lots of advisories about traffic that i received by SMS. As soon as midnight struck though, it felt like the Christmas decoration fever was fully unleashed and the street lights and building decorations multiplied.

What I discovered though was that a good place to enjoy the Christmas tres and decorations are the home section of department stores. So I went out chasing out after decorated trees.
SM City mall, Makati
It was quite pretty seeing the way they were decorated. I particularly enjoyed the oeverloaded trees, as they showcased different themes in luxurious ways.
My favourite decoration
 I specially loved the flowers decorating the trees, inciting you to sniff the fragrance of the tree and flower, which is obviously missing since everything is made of plastic and fabric. A suggestion tot he shop would be to add room fragrance...

Almost Easter tree
And then there is the preppy colored ones which turned the tree all sorts of pastel colors, ready for the Easter bunny.
Candy tree

And my guilty pleasure was the hunger inducing tree with all breakfast and sugar food. Something for the sweet tooth in us all.
Rainy season tree
The good thing about strolling among those trees was that it felt very flowery and summery, and it felt like I was indulging in a bit of escapism from the boring skyscrapers and construction sites all around me.
With that, it felt like a painting, and rather peaceful to look at.