Harajuku dreams and Shinjuku sakura

 Following up on the Yamanote line, the green line that we tourist adore, as we aimed to visit 3 landmarks on the west side (Shibuya, Harajuku, Shinjuku), I could not resist taking them to schoolgirl mecca for some reason so we walked from Shibuya crossings to Harajuku's Takeshita-dōri. And from the get go we went into full puricula mode. We did 3 of them after having some trouble understanding what to do. They turned out superb and memorable, in the style of this one.

 And we also queued for the choux creme - churros snack at zakuzaku, which always cracks me up as it means 'me too me too' in Malagasy.

After lunch we continued on to Shinjuku to briefly check out the Metropolitan government building and its surrounding architecture.We could not really go up since we had scissors with us but the sunset casting its orange lighting was pretty enough.

Luckily for us as well we got to see our first sakura in the sunset, amidst a concrete forest.

Soon it was time to go back our hotel to grab our things and take our first Shinkansen leaving the eastern capital for Kanazawa, on the west coast of Honshu island. The shinkansen route was new that year and took 3hours.

Professional shopping in Shibuya

The next morning, we woke up like acclimatized salarymen and salarywoman, to hit Shibuya. J. has an errand to run in the area and I was somehow fascinated by his work. It made sense to look for Japanese made scissors since they have a tradition of making knifes and swords.

And so we headed for Shibuya and found the shop, but it was not opening until 10am and we had a little less than an hour to wait. So we camped among the workers dressed in suits and waiting for their meetings or interviews in the nearby Starbucks. It was a bit comfortable and disorienting for me as it was my first western chain I used in Japan (other than McDonalds in 2009).

We people watched as the morning advanced, and finally we climbed the stairs to the small showroom. I didn't know scissors could be that expensive (300$-500$), and I also didn't know there were different kind of scissors. So it was very interesting to see the different types and very technical terms as well that I could not remember. There was even a mannequin head to try how they cut on the wig. Unfortunately I had just cut my hair but I would have loved to get my hair cut by J.Sadly I forgot to take any pictures.

Anyway I think he settled for 2 items, one for him and another for a colleague. There was a discussion about how he was going to transport them because they were so valuable but not really suited for cabin luggage. The shop offered to send them but J. preferred to take them.

After the compulsory shopping out of the way, we had out day to play around town, for more compulsive spontaneous shopping. Shibuya station was being renovated but Hachiko statue was not crowded and well visible.

 Somehow the streets were quiet and we had our chance viewing of Super Mario cart wiz by the station as we waited for the pedestrian lights to turn green.

We crossed the famous 4-6 way pedestrian crossing and proceeded to the shops.

We visited 109, a landmark in the area, and visited all the floors. I got myself a blue and red maxi dress and a striped top, marveling at my luck finding something I could fit in. We also visited 109 Mens and the guys also found something to their likings and we all were seriously happy to see so many items we usually did not see or even imagine.

Starting with Shitamachi-Asakusa and some depato visit

I suppose there were not much jet lag as we managed to get breakfast and plan for the day ahead. We first had to go exchange our JR pass vouchers in Tokyo Station as they need to see our passports to see whether we are overseas visitors. I also took the train schedule for Kanazawa for the next day so that we could plan the next day visit.

Since we were in the station, we popped into Daimaru Tokyo Station Daimaru for some serious errand. J. was asked to bring some Suqqu make up for his colleagues, and for the first time I discovered the brand and the second floor of Daimaru. We probabbly toured all the floors as everything looked exotic to me. But eventually i was back in familiar territory, the basement floor with all the food samples.

By late lunchtime we were already in nearby Asakusa, looking for serious food. Somehow the building with the red and blue cup became my unofficial landmark.

Despite the rain and the cold, it was a nice walk, and I even indulged into looking into souvenir shops, trying to think hard what else I didn't have already. At some point I believe the thought of beer drove the guys into a shop, which had an advanced touchscreen ordering system in several languages. We ordered too much and ate like 6, but it was all to start another long walking afternoon so we stocked up on energy.

Indeed we did all the shops lined up on Nakamise dori, in front of Senso ji temple.  It was not too crowded for a Sunday (thank you weather?) and I was tempted more than once to get more sandals and fans. But what I was looking for and could not find 2 years before was an incense burner. I was a bit shy however to enter the incense shops as they looked very formal and gave off an air of ... burial ceremony.

We managed to get to a small shrine to ring the bell, clap and bow before returning to the crowded strets.

 

Anyway, we window shopped and walked and enjoyed the energy surrounding the area. While I wasn't looking, the guys went into otaku mode in front of some knife shop.

 

I was hoping we could visit some sword and knife shops in a quieter area as the crowded atmosphere vaguley reminded me of a drunken Halloween party in 1999...

Moving on, we did not forget to snap a photo with the kaminarimon chochin.

 

We walked quite a bit in Shitamachi, away fromt he crowd and along the Sumida river, seeing the Kiring buidling cross the Sumida river and enjoying the old neighbourhood with all their flowerpots outside. Later in the afternoon, our steps brought us back to

Since we were a few stations from Akihabara, I thought I should let them experience the craze of the place.

 

However it was nearing dinner time and as we got out of the station, a multifloor mall immediately attracted our attention so that none of the mandrake building was out of our sight. We grabbed a drink in a cozy english pub with lovely chandeliers, and had delicious Japanese food (maki and gyoza) ...without being in a maid cafe.

Temperature shock in Tokyo

I was coming from 30C weather in Manila, with low humidity and blazing sun. For start, I took a cab to the wrong terminal. Luckily I got there 3h before the flight and had to rush to take a shuttle to the correct terminal across what I thought was the longest transfer ever, with stress heightened and bladder full. Eventually I rushed tot he ANA counter in front of which there was no queue thank heaven. After checking in my luggage and relieving myself to all that could distract me from this vacation, I was on an incident free flight.  I had taken a light woolen coat, pink to suit the season.

Arriving late afternoon in Narita, I was excited with the now familiar sight and smell, yet still disoriented from the change of pace. And most of all I was taken aback by the weather. It was 0C with light slush and I could not see any sign of buds on the barren trees lining the streets .I instantly regretted not checking the weather at destination before packing. I was hoping it would feel like the height of spring for those flying from snow buried Canada.

R&J's flight would land late afternoon, so I was not expecting them before 19:00 or even 20:00. It would give me time to find the hotel, rest and set a meeting point with E-san. At Tokyo station, I was finding my way to the hotel thanks to the public wifi, but somehow I was brain freezed and could not find the way. I kept walking back and forth to the bus terminal in front of the station, to eventually get into the line for a taxi. It was snowing and windy and I could not see myself dragging my suitcase in the then fading light of the early evening to the hotel.

The white glove clad driver opened the back passenger door, got out to put my suitcase in the trunk and to close my door. Then with the hotel address (printed in Japanese), we drove literally for 7minutes (lots of roundabouts and one way streets) to Villa Fontaine. I was relieved to be in the warm lobby of the hotel. It was a business hotel and lots of soap and other accessories available in the lobby (shampoo, toothbrush, cotton buds, etc...). After a warm shower and wearing all the warmest clothes I tried to memorize the way back to Tokyo Station.

As dinner time approached I walked to Tokyo station to meet with E-san in front of Daimaru. I was within wifi reach and we would not look too suspicious waiting for each other. After 2 years since 2015, we would meet again in Tokyo.

 E-san knew of this Okinawan cuisine place under Tokyo station (which boasts a whole city of eateries) and we settled for drinks to catch up. It was nice and warm indeed in the south and a nice touch from E-san. Later on as R&J landed and made for the hotel, we eventually met after a game of hide and seek in Tokyo station many levels underground streets.

Subjects of conversation got drowned in the drinks and warmth of the place, and we soon had to go sleep, while E-san had to go across town to western districts to her apartment.

And so we went our way, passing by Nihonbashi one more time to snap the dragon statue for kilometer zero.

Japan 2017 edition with R. and J.

I have never imagined visiting Japan in a week. But that was exactly what happened April 2017. From being used to plan for 3 weeks  and 2 weeks visit, this was my first non solo week long trip to Japan.

I cannot remember when we decided to go, but I know I bought my ticket to Narita knowing I would be in Manila for a few months. So it was exciting for me to have a shorter flight with ANA to look forward to. Also we planned for the hanami season, to see flowers bloom and enjoy some mild temperatures, from March 25 until April 1st 2017. Or so we thought anyway.

In terms of logistics, I would be leaving my apart hotel in Manila Makati Citadines and keep my luggage at work and travel with only one suitcase. I would be changing room in the same hotel upon my return. This was a good break to make sure i didn't accumulate too much as my stay extended 2 months already!).

Considering the length of our stay in Japan and the ticket prices, I planned for a loop starting form Tokyo, going to Kanazawa, Kyoto and back to Tokyo, using a week JR pass and hotels for about $100/night max on average.

Accomodations:
Tokyo: Hotel villa fontaine (Nihonbashi Mitsukoshimae)
Kanazawa: Hotel Nikko Kanazawa
Kyoto: airbnb new listing in Higashiyama
Tokyo: Remm Roppongi

Sayonara Tokyo, mata ne!

Taking the NEX train to Narita, I felt sad but happy to have shown my parents a different world that gave me ideas and courage. There were so much to learn from and more places I could have taken them (such as Akihabara, Kamakura to name a few), but I imagined as well how overloaded they were with all those sensory experiences.

In my case, this 3rd trip to Japan was a discovery that I could enjoy it with other people, as opposed to my solo trips. From planning it to improvising, this was an experience that allowed me to let go and brought me to some positive off the beaten path experience.

It also mad me realize as well I should explore something completely, because sometimes they would not be there anymore afterward.

And so refreshed with such thoughts, I flew west to met my new job.

From Ikebukuro to Kagurazaka and back

After a full day of walking the wisest thing to do was to keep walking the next day.
And so we departed our hotel for an appointment in Iidabashi station with E-san for lunch. The weather was kind of dry, though some rain was expected. Nonetheless we asked reception for a walking path to Iidabashi.

We were met with perplexed looks and panicked search and printing of Google map. Indeed, our request seemed absurd when one could just take the train there. Aware of the difficulty I put the hotel staff into, I just accepted the unreadable map and started walking towards the cardinal direction the map indicated.A few hundreds metres later we encountered a kōban (交番) where I asked for direction again as we came across a major crossroad. After the incredulous look and even a small scoff, he asked if I would understand him, so I asked him to go ahead and tell me. In any case left and right were understood, and the rest were just answered with nods and determined looks.

And so we set off, under the expressway, toward Iidabashi area through residential areas, and evena  temple we came across and we visited. These were the unseen sights that cannot be found in guide books.

It even started to rain, but we continued on for about 1h, passing through golf shops, pharmacies, small grocery stores. I enjoyed the normalcy of it, walking in the neighourhood. But also noticed there were not many people walking along the main road we took, even though there were proper sidewalks to walk on.

Eventually arriving at Iidabashi, we realized we didn't quite agree at which exit to meet. With horror we found there were at least 3 exits to the station. So we split and waited with worry. Eventually we managed to be found by E-san and regroup to go for lunch. We went to a warm nabe and place and it was very delicious and comforting.

After lunch we looked for the Kagurazaka festival that was supposed to take place in the area, celebrating traditional arts, with parades and geisha performances. We walked into alleys so small it was unbelievable we were still in Tokyo. We came across small shrines, a sudden flower pot...

Eventually we found where the soaked parade were, and got wind of a shamisen performance in a small cafe. So we rushed there to take seat, and had a lovely performance by 3 players.

They played for about 30min and gave us a taste of the beautiful old tunes and sentiments from the shamisen. It was a shame we could not see more because of the weather. But I was happy we could have a sample of this traditional art. I also received an origami heart ring from a lady from the audience I was chatting with.

What beautiful tunes to end our last evening in Tokyo. And to make the evening last we kidnapped E-san to our hotel for dinner and drinks.

It was with heavy heart that we said goodbye, to E-san and her beautiful country.