Thursday 30 March 2017

A long trip across islands for a mythical bath in Matsuyama, Shikoku island

We had decided to use Thursday as a free day, and because we absolutely needed to take advantage of the JR pass, we wanted to go as far as possible and maybe even change island. The only thing I could think of was Matsuyama on Shikoku since it was a city and had good transportation, and had Dogo onsen as one of the inspirations for the bath house in Studio Ghibli's Sen to Chihiro no Kamikakushi (千と千尋の神隠し).






And so we departed from Kyoto station in the morning, taking the Hikari (meaning 'Light')  Shinkansen to Okayma for 1h30, then changing to the Shiokaze (meaning 'See breeze') train from Okayama to Matsuyama to cross to Shikoku island and arrive in a bit less than 3h at 14:13.
On the way we saw the countryside, the sea, the pilgrims doing their tour of the 88 temples on Shikoku island. One day I would like to do part of the pilgrimage as well as it goes through nature and remote villages.



 When in Matsuyama, we then rode the tram for another 15-20minutes to Dogo onsen honkan (bath house). 
 In addition from being a very old bah house (from 1894), what was fascinating was that it was well organized inside, with staff directing you based on the the ticket purchased. We purchased and entrance with a snack, so after leaving our shoes we proceeded to the locker room to change into our naked bodies, save for a yukata provided. Outside the changing room, staff would direct to the baths (2 baths each I believe) and after that gave you the snack and tea to enjoy on a large tatami room on the second floor with no walls ( terrace style) so the breeze would cool you down gently.

This was the ultimate experience of civilization, once enjoyed by millions of people when public baths were the norm. 

The return trip took the reverse path, and was uneventful. We all snoozed relaxed from the bath and even though the apartment had a bathtube the experience was well worth it.  Even if I were shy from being naked in front of others, there were very little chances of meeting those people I met again because I had just traveled 5hours to show myself. 

Back in Kyoto we went to McDonalds in front of the station, as J. was curious about their menu. I pigged out like there would be no tomorrow since there was a hill to climb in the evening.







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