Stocking up on facial masks in Myeongdong and discovering the COEX mall

Wandering in Myeongdong and checking meeting up with June was a highlight in itself. No hand in hand date but pleasant catching up. I even met her husband and cute baby girl sleeping in the car.

In the afternoon, the COEX mall in Gangnam was a whole town in itself, with even its own aquarium..for my last day in town, this is the last shopping gig. It maybe not a cultural destination for me, but a landmark of what Seoul has to offer in term of temple of consumerism.

It was difficult to think of my departure, as I grew attached to this diverse city, and the tranquility of its countryside.

Friday dinner in Sinchon/Hongdae and and evening with 'Nanta'

I was meeting N. from the couchsurfing community for dinner, and we met in front of the Hyundai department store entrance at 17:30. I was a bit early so checked out the street vendors selling all sorts of snacks in front of the entrance while checking the metro exits nearby as Sinchon had so many exits in front of the store. She was early as well and we greeted comfortably. It was always a bit awkward to meet people that were complete strangers as we hadn't shared much online before meeting up. But conversation was easy and she let me though busting streets of Hongdae to quiet streets with interesting cafe/bar concepts. I was completely disoriented but was enjoying the conversation as if meeting old friends.

She suggested a chicken restaurant, which seemed to specialize in the type of spicy chicken that we had (chap chae). I was astonished by the dish size however, as it came almost in a huge round platter that could fed 4-6 people. Matter of fact the other tables had parties of 4-6 and the serving looked the same.

The red peppers were not for decoration. The cold radish as side dish was not enough to cool me down as the spices got me sweating and crying in no time. It was very tasty but the spiciness eventually accumulated and got the best of me. So I had an additional soda and rice while listening to her stories form her trips in China, her life in Seoul, and her aspirations.

After the meal we walked more into Hongdae looking for the Nanta theatre. N. asked me if I like clubbing, and I sure did, but wondered if maybe I had reached the age considered to be past the age of clubbing. It was interesting to see the ealry rising of nightlife as fashionable, hyper and hopeful youth started to take over the streets. I was curious but had a performance to catch. We were a bit confused about the direction of the theatre and when N. asked into a convenient store she was almost yelled at because it was literally in front of us (and though we must have been joking). Anyway, it was near a preppy mall/performance centre and in the underground floors.

We walked down the spiraling stairs about 19:00 and I got my ticket before a huge group of tourists took the whole desk. It was a popular show because it was a non verbal show. I was curious, obviously because it was about food (kitchen chefs etc) and also because it was the first non verbal show I was seeing after Cirque du Soleil "Ka", almost 10 years ago.

N. left after our meeting and I hoped to see her again the next time I visit Seoul or elsewhere in the world. I was touched by our conversation as it was simple yet meaningful. I was not used to be comfortable with strangers, but we got along nicely.

I was first to enter the theatre and was seated front row smack right in the middle. I was wondering whether it was a good thing or not given that I was expecting some food to fly at me (could still see some cabbage on the floor). The stage was setup as a kitchen and I was anticipating the show. As more people entered the hall, I could see groups of Japanese, Chinese, a few Koreans, Westerners. The theatre was not full but here was a good number of audience.

As the show started, I was caught in 1h30 of hilarious dance, facial expressions and onomatopoeia made by the 5 members of the talented cast. I would probably check out a musical the next time, or a traditional orchestra, in order to get a taste of the traditional musicality.

The show finished shortly before 10pm and as I walked back to the hotel I was envious of all the groups going out on Friday night. I was taken back 10 years during University days, and how things were so glittery and exciting back then. I also noticed how tall people were as I passed by the populous areas. After 15min walk, I got back to the Sinchon rotary and decided to turn the TV on to avoid hearing another screaming lady next door. I wondered if I would still have time to come back and enjoy the night life in Hongdae or if it would be too late the next time I visit...

Friday afternoon shopping in Gwangjang market

I reached Gwangjang market from Jongno5ga station on line2 and the entrance was just outside exit 12 and 13. I was lucky it was a covered market because the rain was falling heavily and the air was damp outside. This was a last minute trip as well because I was hoping to check out the hanbok market on the first floor. However the ground floor market was very impressive with all the food and house decoration materials that could be bought. I definetely could have grabbed food for lunch while wandering about.

If not in stalls, food was setup on plastic chairs int he middle of the alleys or at crossroads. The displays themselves were so pretty it was a feast for the eyes. Because Chuseok was on Sunday, there were many packaged goods for offerings.

I just marveled at the arrangements and displays, whether fruits, sweets or seafood. The place was huge and there was no end to the food and temptation.

I finally found the nerve to go on the upper floor where all things fabric were sold: from curtain fabric to tower fabric to silk, there were everything. They also sold ready made hanbok and had catalogues of hanbok to order custom made. It was so hot despite the rain and I was trying to cool down at first passing by many fans. There were less people so I was more noticeable as a foreign customer, which I found awkward and not very good if I wanted to be able to bargain.

Eventually I stopped by a booth that had lovely colours and the ahjummas was very eager into asking me which colour I preferred, how long a fabric I needed, and even opened a catalog to showcase the other colours and match the samples I chose. I was in a bind since I already had so much fabric at home with not so much as an idea to sew them. But the lovely yellow colour won me over and another electric blue/dark turquoise one. I wasn't really looking for it but it was silk supposedly and they weren't too expensive. So I got a grey one too to top it off. Her credit card machine didn't work so she had to call the next booth to lend her one. And after that she sat me down like an aunt and served me juice and kept talking about her daughter in Oxford. I was seriously amazed at how much I was getting into the conversation, helped with the phrasebook. And the 3 other booth were watching us like TV...without laughing so I wasn't making a fool of myself at least! It was quite enjoyable to shop despite the initial awkwardness.

As the afternoon ended, I had to return to Sinchon as I had an appointment in the evening. The market got me everything I needed in term of atmosphere, food, fabric and more. It was definetely a must see and must-return place, to enjoy a leisure stroll and a chat with the locals.

Friday lunch in Garosugil

By 11:30am I was in the metro again to head for lunch in the super hobo area of Garosugil. I exited the Sinsa station and spent some time circling around many restaurant still not opened (at least with no visible customers inside), before finding the famed street. Admittedly it was taken over some familiar brands (Nine West and Melvita to name a few), but there were also some pop up stores.

I settled on a corner yellow restaurant that served Italian food and ordered red crab pasta and kiwi juice for 34000KRW. It came with water and sweet cucumber pickles that I could eat forever. I had a refill of the sweet cucumber but thought that a second refill might be a bit too much for my stomach. As rain suddenly poured down, more people came in for lunch and so I had to suck the crab meat out of its shell in front of an audience. It was delicious and I could have taken a nap right there. But the rain stopped and I was out again to window shop, digest and even bought an umbrella to add to my collection.

Since I could not find the area with small bookshops and street market, I headed off again to another interesting station on line 2.

Friday breakfast in Gangnam and the D'lite mall

Friday morning came as a sunlight woke me up around 7:00am instead of an alarm clock. I was planning to get to the Samsung showroom and shop in Gangnam and explore the area. I avoided the full rush hour but still saw lots of workers going to work, Some high schoolers traveling with luggage to head home for Chuseok. I passed by Media City, University of Seoul, as well as National Centre for Education.

I exited at Gangnam station right after 10:00am and headed straight to the basement level of the showroom form the metro station. consumer electronics appliances (no fridge or washing machine). The ground floor was the showroom, with all sorts of devices being showcased: digital cameras, flat touch surfaces to dance on, tablets, phones. I was new to the Android environment so I was a bit awkward playing around by myself trying to avoid the staff in an empty building right after opening hour. The upper floor was an activity room which I enjoyed very much. There was an interesting history of semi conductor research in the first hall, with lots of information to read. Then there was a small living room with different appliances showcased that could be tried out as everything interacted together: a table with a flat surface interface, the TV, oven, the fridge and the washing machine and lighting of the area.

There was also an activity area to play with a tablet, wheere one had to scan the barcodes to start the activities. The theme was software and it was trying to illustrate the importance of software by providing various example of what a software would do in different settings: power management, Elevator (reminded me of my University coding project), traffic lights, etc...

By the time I finished playing around like a dork, a big group of Chinese tourists entered the shop looking for the bathrooms. I went across the shop into a French themed cafe and calmly had a hot chocolate and cream cheese biscuit, while eavesdropping on all conversations around me. I could walk around Gangnam but I had no interest in luxurious boutiques after all. I would have needed to explore with more time on my hands but I had more interesting quirky destinations to explore in Seoul so I took the metro again for Garosugil.

Back in Seoul for a stay in Sinchon and shopping in Insandong

The approach to Gimpo airport was quite impressive as I was landing early afternoon on Thursday. After the rice paddies the metropolis sprawled along the Han river. Closer to the airport there seemed to be new housing development as some skyscrapers were sprouting out of the ground in the middle of the rice paddies.

From the airport I headed to Sinchon station, South West area of Seoul, which is famous for its nightlife as it is close to 4 Universities: Hongik University, Ehwa University, Yonsei University, Sogang University. The station was easy access from the airport. When I exited the station I was directly on the Sinchon rotary (or circle, big roundabout). There was a department store at the exit I took, the other one from the Hyundai department store. After crossing the street and walking around looking for the street of my hotel I finally found it among other neon lit hotels off the main street, behind a grilled meat restaurant, in front of Santa Fe hotel.

Reception gave a complimentary pouch filled with "goodies": a pair of toothbrushes, a pair of condoms, facial wash, a razor, panty liner. So indeed I was in a love hotel (why would a business hotel give condoms?). The room was decent and clean, with a huge TV screen taking up a whole wall. The 1m square bathroom let me shower in front of the toilet (seems like a common setting). The shower gel was fantastic for my hair and I was tempted to take it home. I started to smell like the people I first met in the trains: a mix of soap and bleach.

By 15:00 I was out and about again in Anguk station, strutting like a local and heading directly to the main shopping street I scouted  the days before. I was mainly looking for the souvenir centre and combine all my expenses on the credit card. But there were many small shops worth the trip as well. There were many shops for instance selling paper crafts: decorated papers, fans, and everything else to decorate a sheet of paper or stationary papers. I resisted the urge to buy tea sets from the many celadon shops lining the streets. I got myself boxes of traditional sweets and even spoke French to a shopkeeper that spent time in Quebec.

Soon it was time to head back to Sinchon and I still regret to have stayed in instead of going out and explore the famous night life. To be honest it was holiday season since Chuseok was on that week. So the students would have gone home to their respective families. This is the area that comes alive with impromptu concerts from the students at Hongik, and craft markets from the arts students. It is definitely an area I should get back to as it reminded me of the early days of Brick lane markets.

On a side note, the hotel (hotel Parfe) had thin walls. The next door room woman could be heard screaming and making all sorts of noises when being pleasured by her partner. I had to turn on the TV and the AirCon to max to be able to sleep.

Strolling in Insadong, around Gwanghamun and City hall area

Insadong was really accessible from Anguk station as well, just south of Bukchon, but I stumbled on it trying to go South for some antique shops. Eventually I stumbled on Insadong culture plaza and walked all the way up the street among cute antique shops and porcelain shops, as well as various crafts. I managed to check out Ssamziegil with all the kids hanging out, and it felt a bit like London Shoreditch area.

There were many hanbok style outfits, decorated papers, pottery and tea sets to buy, and many more design gadgets to lust on. But I was only starting my trip so I could not burden myself with shopping item already, and just made notes on what to buy later before leaving the country as I accommodated for a shopping day. I just kept on window shopping and snacking along the way on rice cakes and bubble tea.

Eventually the street led me a block away from Gwanghamun but it was still too early for me to book a night city bus tour, so I strolled back down the parallel street and up again along the unearthed Cheonggyecheon stream. I managed to book a ticket for Nanta on a TKTS van, and had a chat with the girls manning the booth as they were more happy to speak in English. Along the river, there was a festival of some sorts so I spied some wild ginseng and unidentified plants being showcased.

The ladies were trying to entice me with some drinks but as I did not see any public toilet I didn't want to need one.

I still had 3 h to kill before the night tour so walked along on Gwanghamun plaza to read the story and tak picture of 2 local heroes: King Sejong and Admiral Yi Sun-sin. I really wanted to visit Sejong Center for the Performing Arts as from one episode of Running man, but there was no performance that day. So I enjoyed the sunset with the statues of a country strategist (and his turtle ship)and hangul creator...while musing about where to go next.

At the end of the plaza was the Gwanghamun gate which I didn't have time to visit. It would be another destination for next time. But the path to the gate was basking in sunset light and enjoying the natural greens of the rice fields put on the plaza.

As darkeness creeped on the city, I had to look for dinner after booking my bus tour. Walking toward City hall, arrived onto an agricultural fair which also had a stage and traditional or folk music and dance showcase. Spectators were dancing along or sitting on the grass, enjoying the pleasant evening. So I tried to blend in, camcorder in hand, and sat on the grass to rest my sore feet.

After a while though it became a bit monotonous so I wandered among the stalls, grabbed some red berry juice, and tasted some candies or rice cakes offered by the persistent ajhummas. Stands of pickels, kimchis, root vegetables of all sorts I could not identify and more kimchi or chillis made up the fair.

As the sunlight dimmed, the city light started to sparkle and I started to move toward the bus stop for my night tour.

There was still more than an hour to wait and I resorted to people watch, marveling at the long organized queues of commuters waiting for their buses. It was Friday night and I was waiting for a bus to show me around the night lights.

The night bus tour turned out to be disappointing though. The bus itself was decorated with photos of Big Bang members. But the route of the bus was just along the river and describing the different bridges crossing it. We barely drove past Namsan Seoul tower. I was glad to sit down in an air conditionned car, and on the upper deck front row seat, but I was expecting more of a buildings architecture or light tour rather than being stuck in traffic jam with rush hours along the river.

All in all though it was a day that was worth it and I looked forward to the next days. Coming back to the guesthouse around 10pm, I just washed my face again before going to bed. Other guests were having a nice chat outside and invited me but I was spent from the hike and jetlag. After charging all the batteries of the phones and cameras, I set the alarm for the next day as I needed to catch a  train to Daegu, a drifted to sleep in no time.

Light hiking in Changdeokgung palace

About 3-4hours after landing in Seoul, I was contemplating the large majestic Donhwamun gate entrance of the Changdeokgung complex. I chose it over Gyeongbokgung palace because it had he secret garden section (Biwon) and was a UNESCO world Heritage site. It was also near the guesthouse I was staying in that evening.

 I managed to buy one ticket in Hangul for the Palace and garden visit, and had 20min left before the Secret Garden guided tour started. So I followed the colourful toddlers on a school trip, unable to suppress the grin on my face at the explosion of cuteness. Over the Geumcheongyo bridge (oldest stone bridge in Seoul, built in 1411) I walked to Jinseonmun gate. According to the green English guidebook acquired at the entrance, the Jinseonmun gate used to house a bell that anyone could strike to request an audience for a complaint to the king (noble idea). But of course the paperworks and permissions to get to the bell itself was an almos impossible task.

The gate let me through a huge paved area with a central raised path going through. On the left was another gate (Injeongmun) leading to the throne hall (Injeongjeon) of the palace. The throne hall could only be viewed from outside and no visitor was allowed inside. I imagined the people prosterning before the hall, behing their assigned post stones.

As I idled around, I noticed a group gathering for an English guided tour. I happily joined and took pictures among tourists from Hawaii and Australia. The guide then pointed out some statues on the gates and mentioned something that I could not remember but they were all symbols representing either the occupants or the people allowed through I supposed.

 An in comparison to the structures visited in Japan, the buildings were very much decorated with bright colours, which made me think more of tropical Polynesia island (which I still have yet to visit!).

And I could finally see how the ondol (floor heating) system worked back in those days, as shown by the multiple chimneys that were integrated into the buildings' architecture.

After pasing by the sign pointing to the Secret Garden entrance, the group stopped and finished and I realized I joined the wrong group. So I had to run to the Biwon entrance, to be scolded by the ticket lady in the entrance booth, but was directed to walk up the hill for a shortcut to find my guided tour.

And so began my trek to fight jet-lag, on a hill that hosts the royal garden forbidden to the rest of the people (hence Secret Garden) and pavilions built across the forest. I huffed and puffed for 10min before getting to the top of the hill and overlooked a large rectangular pond (Buyongji) and a peaceful pavilion on high ground (Juhamnu), with tens of tourists taking pictures...

The group finished their break as soon as I arrived from my hike, and departed leisurely to climb again through lush vegetation, following a path to a complex called Aeryeonji and Uiduhap. The entrance was through a stone gate called Bullomun, and if you go through you would not grow old according to the legend/saying.

But it was the small structure over the pond that was very charming as one could imagine the change of colours and season around the pond.

Past the pond we got to the crown prince Hyomueong place called Yeongyeongdang. it was very simple in colour and the complex had separated entrance for women and men. I loved the calm light radiating from the white walls and the wooden pillars. Apparently this complex used to host foreign envoys visiting during the reign of King Gojong.

After much climbing again, I was glad I had my walking shoes on, and we got to an emblematic area with a renown fountain: Ongnyucheon area, where a U shaped groove was carved into a flat rock, and according to the booket, the royals used to float their alcohol on it and do poetry...I again found the lighting very calming and the presence of water very soothing to my already tired jet-lagged self.

And because it was Chuseok around the corner (Thanksgiving in another world), it was very fortuitous see rice growing nearby. The pavilion Cheonguijeong is the only one with a thatch roof.

Then after a climb of some stairway to heaven, we got around the hills and towards tot he exit of the Secret Garden which I recommend strongly. Our exit was near a very old pine tree, along some nicely decorated wall. I was very thirsty from the hike and starting to be famished as well.

I was so tired and it was 1pm so I went to pick up my back from the locker and started looking for the guesthouse in the hope of getting refreshed and have a sit down. It took me a while through the small streets off the main road of Anguk station exit 3 to get to someone knowing where the guesthouse was. But he guided me through more small streets, 2 or 3 blocks away, to come to a cute traditional gate unlocked by a pin code...

I had a quick face wash and unpacking session as well as intense staring at the wall before heading out for the afternoon for a chow on the streets.