About 3-4hours after landing in Seoul, I was contemplating the large majestic Donhwamun gate entrance of the Changdeokgung complex. I chose it over Gyeongbokgung palace because it had he secret garden section (Biwon) and was a UNESCO world Heritage site. It was also near the guesthouse I was staying in that evening.
I managed to buy one ticket in Hangul for the Palace and garden visit, and had 20min left before the Secret Garden guided tour started. So I followed the colourful toddlers on a school trip, unable to suppress the grin on my face at the explosion of cuteness. Over the Geumcheongyo bridge (oldest stone bridge in Seoul, built in 1411) I walked to Jinseonmun gate. According to the green English guidebook acquired at the entrance, the Jinseonmun gate used to house a bell that anyone could strike to request an audience for a complaint to the king (noble idea). But of course the paperworks and permissions to get to the bell itself was an almos impossible task.
The gate let me through a huge paved area with a central raised path going through. On the left was another gate (Injeongmun) leading to the throne hall (Injeongjeon) of the palace. The throne hall could only be viewed from outside and no visitor was allowed inside. I imagined the people prosterning before the hall, behing their assigned post stones.
As I idled around, I noticed a group gathering for an English guided tour. I happily joined and took pictures among tourists from Hawaii and Australia. The guide then pointed out some statues on the gates and mentioned something that I could not remember but they were all symbols representing either the occupants or the people allowed through I supposed.
An in comparison to the structures visited in Japan, the buildings were very much decorated with bright colours, which made me think more of tropical Polynesia island (which I still have yet to visit!).
And I could finally see how the ondol (floor heating) system worked back in those days, as shown by the multiple chimneys that were integrated into the buildings' architecture.
After pasing by the sign pointing to the Secret Garden entrance, the group stopped and finished and I realized I joined the wrong group. So I had to run to the Biwon entrance, to be scolded by the ticket lady in the entrance booth, but was directed to walk up the hill for a shortcut to find my guided tour.
And so began my trek to fight jet-lag, on a hill that hosts the royal garden forbidden to the rest of the people (hence Secret Garden) and pavilions built across the forest. I huffed and puffed for 10min before getting to the top of the hill and overlooked a large rectangular pond (Buyongji) and a peaceful pavilion on high ground (Juhamnu), with tens of tourists taking pictures...
The group finished their break as soon as I arrived from my hike, and departed leisurely to climb again through lush vegetation, following a path to a complex called Aeryeonji and Uiduhap. The entrance was through a stone gate called Bullomun, and if you go through you would not grow old according to the legend/saying.
But it was the small structure over the pond that was very charming as one could imagine the change of colours and season around the pond.
Past the pond we got to the crown prince Hyomueong place called Yeongyeongdang. it was very simple in colour and the complex had separated entrance for women and men. I loved the calm light radiating from the white walls and the wooden pillars. Apparently this complex used to host foreign envoys visiting during the reign of King Gojong.
And because it was Chuseok around the corner (Thanksgiving in another world), it was very fortuitous see rice growing nearby. The pavilion Cheonguijeong is the only one with a thatch roof.
Then after a climb of some stairway to heaven, we got around the hills and towards tot he exit of the Secret Garden which I recommend strongly. Our exit was near a very old pine tree, along some nicely decorated wall. I was very thirsty from the hike and starting to be famished as well.
I was so tired and it was 1pm so I went to pick up my back from the locker and started looking for the guesthouse in the hope of getting refreshed and have a sit down. It took me a while through the small streets off the main road of Anguk station exit 3 to get to someone knowing where the guesthouse was. But he guided me through more small streets, 2 or 3 blocks away, to come to a cute traditional gate unlocked by a pin code...
I had a quick face wash and unpacking session as well as intense staring at the wall before heading out for the afternoon for a chow on the streets.
The gate let me through a huge paved area with a central raised path going through. On the left was another gate (Injeongmun) leading to the throne hall (Injeongjeon) of the palace. The throne hall could only be viewed from outside and no visitor was allowed inside. I imagined the people prosterning before the hall, behing their assigned post stones.
As I idled around, I noticed a group gathering for an English guided tour. I happily joined and took pictures among tourists from Hawaii and Australia. The guide then pointed out some statues on the gates and mentioned something that I could not remember but they were all symbols representing either the occupants or the people allowed through I supposed.
After pasing by the sign pointing to the Secret Garden entrance, the group stopped and finished and I realized I joined the wrong group. So I had to run to the Biwon entrance, to be scolded by the ticket lady in the entrance booth, but was directed to walk up the hill for a shortcut to find my guided tour.
And so began my trek to fight jet-lag, on a hill that hosts the royal garden forbidden to the rest of the people (hence Secret Garden) and pavilions built across the forest. I huffed and puffed for 10min before getting to the top of the hill and overlooked a large rectangular pond (Buyongji) and a peaceful pavilion on high ground (Juhamnu), with tens of tourists taking pictures...
The group finished their break as soon as I arrived from my hike, and departed leisurely to climb again through lush vegetation, following a path to a complex called Aeryeonji and Uiduhap. The entrance was through a stone gate called Bullomun, and if you go through you would not grow old according to the legend/saying.
Past the pond we got to the crown prince Hyomueong place called Yeongyeongdang. it was very simple in colour and the complex had separated entrance for women and men. I loved the calm light radiating from the white walls and the wooden pillars. Apparently this complex used to host foreign envoys visiting during the reign of King Gojong.
After much climbing again, I was glad I had my walking shoes on, and we got to an emblematic area with a renown fountain: Ongnyucheon area, where a U shaped groove was carved into a flat rock, and according to the booket, the royals used to float their alcohol on it and do poetry...I again found the lighting very calming and the presence of water very soothing to my already tired jet-lagged self.
I was so tired and it was 1pm so I went to pick up my back from the locker and started looking for the guesthouse in the hope of getting refreshed and have a sit down. It took me a while through the small streets off the main road of Anguk station exit 3 to get to someone knowing where the guesthouse was. But he guided me through more small streets, 2 or 3 blocks away, to come to a cute traditional gate unlocked by a pin code...
I had a quick face wash and unpacking session as well as intense staring at the wall before heading out for the afternoon for a chow on the streets.
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