The UNESCO World Heritage Buddhist temple Haeinsa is reachable by bus from Daegu, from the Seobu bus terminal. For some who might find it crazy to go in the middle of the unknown by bus, with the risk of being stuck there, I can argue that the weather was beautiful, and that it was a mere 1h45min away from the big city of Daegu. Besides, the bus network has a clear website and documented by the tourism office. Admittedly it was my first time taking an intercity bus alone in Asia, and I was impressed with the clean infrastructures, comfortable buses and regular schedules.
As I found out there were many visitors taking the same route. For instance there were 4 Australian tourists seating int he back seats of the bus, mocking the English accents of the locals loudly. I was tired and needed some peace and focus while the bus driver sped through the countryside landscape, so I quietly asked them to lower their voices. As on cue, a man sitting across the aisle suddenly burst out a " yes be quiet, this is not your bus". Indeed I was also amazed how insensitive they were, coming to the country to teach, while ignoring basic manners of politeness. They got the message and kept conversing in hushed voices for the rest of the journey. I could sense my karma improve already...
The bus came out of the highway and stopped at a decorated exit gate, indicating the entrance to Gaya-san national park. A park officer hopped on the bus to collect the fee for park entrance and gave us tickets (2000KRW) and we soon took up the sinuous road through the lush green vegetation of the mountains. The air got breezy and fresh under the trees, and at the bus stop for the temple there were many more hikers in flashy colorful outfits wandering about from the the local hotels. They were a few young tourists but the majority were middle age or above 50-60 years old. I was originally planning to stay the night at the temple but the bus schedule was tricky to catch the train in Daegu. I would have enjoyed a night in the temple but will need to come back another time (sigh).
There was a path leading to a big festival house, I knew I was lost when it was very quiet inside and the only man present could not understand the mention of Tripitaka Koreana. However his fictional light bulb lit up above his head when I mentionned Iljumun gate, so he pointed towards another path to take. As I started my climb (yet another hike), I stumbled ona sign indicating the destination to be at 1km...so I grabbed a chewy meat on stick from a street vendor for 700KRW (it came with a drink from a shared cup, just washed in water, but I skipped the drink), and could not identify what meat it was, probably fish ball meat or oden meat. Then I stumbled on a construction that seemed out of place, yet visually blending in the landscape depending on the angle..kind of reminding me of the invisibility suits in sci-fi movies (wear mirrors!)
Eventually I stumbled on Iljumun gate, standing tall at the beginning of a path to the temple. There were not many people nearby and I could enjoy the sound of the mountain birds, the wind brushing against the trees and the rolling of gravel under my steps.
Another gate after Iljumun led to a courtyard with loads of lantern arranged in a maze, leading to another elevated gate. People would pay for a prayer tablet, then go through the maze before climbing the stairs to the high gate.
Through the high elevated gate was another courtyard with a 3 story pagoda and a pretty yellow walled hall.
Another steep flight of steps toward the red buildings and a smaller courtyard hosted 2 colourful prayer halls with their insides decorated with hundreds of lanterns and prayers.
And finally behind those building were the entrance to the largest Buddhist library of Buddhist scriptures, surviving from various wars and invasion. The buildings were not colourful but an elegant beige and dark wood. One could enter and watch the wooden block from the entrance only and could not browse. Even taking photos were prohibited. I managed to take a shot from the below courtyard,
After a short walk around the compounds admiring the various colors of the buildings and cleaning my lungs with cool mountain air, it was time to head back to the bus stop around 16:00. I left Iljumun behind and sat at the bus stop with the old lady in her little wooden hut, watching people drive or walk by.
I bought a kiwi flavored shaved ice to replenish my sugar level (really ate nothing for the day!). They really exaggerate on the sugar or palm syrup though because although there were kiwis put in there (freshly peeled in front of me), I could barely taste it. I also bought some powdered green tea from 2 ajhummas, and instead of one serving she added another one for 'service'. I must admit I had enough green tea for a year at least.
The trip back was quiet and upon arriving at Daegu bus terminal, I could see a whole avenue filled with outdoor sports shops. So Daegu was definetely impressive in term of shopping temptation as well, worth a re-visit.
Back in Daegu, I feasted in bibimbap and yaki udon to satisfy my body with its earrthly desires...Yum! Then I enjoyed the 14th floor room and watched an episode of 뱀파이어 검사 2 (Vampire Prosecutor 2), an episode of 신사의 품격 (A Gentleman's Dignity), and Song Joong-Ki in 티끌모아 로맨스 (Penny Pinchers)...without subtitles. Strangely enough I didn't catch any Daegu local accent.
As I found out there were many visitors taking the same route. For instance there were 4 Australian tourists seating int he back seats of the bus, mocking the English accents of the locals loudly. I was tired and needed some peace and focus while the bus driver sped through the countryside landscape, so I quietly asked them to lower their voices. As on cue, a man sitting across the aisle suddenly burst out a " yes be quiet, this is not your bus". Indeed I was also amazed how insensitive they were, coming to the country to teach, while ignoring basic manners of politeness. They got the message and kept conversing in hushed voices for the rest of the journey. I could sense my karma improve already...
The bus came out of the highway and stopped at a decorated exit gate, indicating the entrance to Gaya-san national park. A park officer hopped on the bus to collect the fee for park entrance and gave us tickets (2000KRW) and we soon took up the sinuous road through the lush green vegetation of the mountains. The air got breezy and fresh under the trees, and at the bus stop for the temple there were many more hikers in flashy colorful outfits wandering about from the the local hotels. They were a few young tourists but the majority were middle age or above 50-60 years old. I was originally planning to stay the night at the temple but the bus schedule was tricky to catch the train in Daegu. I would have enjoyed a night in the temple but will need to come back another time (sigh).
There was a path leading to a big festival house, I knew I was lost when it was very quiet inside and the only man present could not understand the mention of Tripitaka Koreana. However his fictional light bulb lit up above his head when I mentionned Iljumun gate, so he pointed towards another path to take. As I started my climb (yet another hike), I stumbled ona sign indicating the destination to be at 1km...so I grabbed a chewy meat on stick from a street vendor for 700KRW (it came with a drink from a shared cup, just washed in water, but I skipped the drink), and could not identify what meat it was, probably fish ball meat or oden meat. Then I stumbled on a construction that seemed out of place, yet visually blending in the landscape depending on the angle..kind of reminding me of the invisibility suits in sci-fi movies (wear mirrors!)
Eventually I stumbled on Iljumun gate, standing tall at the beginning of a path to the temple. There were not many people nearby and I could enjoy the sound of the mountain birds, the wind brushing against the trees and the rolling of gravel under my steps.
Through the high elevated gate was another courtyard with a 3 story pagoda and a pretty yellow walled hall.
After a short walk around the compounds admiring the various colors of the buildings and cleaning my lungs with cool mountain air, it was time to head back to the bus stop around 16:00. I left Iljumun behind and sat at the bus stop with the old lady in her little wooden hut, watching people drive or walk by.
I bought a kiwi flavored shaved ice to replenish my sugar level (really ate nothing for the day!). They really exaggerate on the sugar or palm syrup though because although there were kiwis put in there (freshly peeled in front of me), I could barely taste it. I also bought some powdered green tea from 2 ajhummas, and instead of one serving she added another one for 'service'. I must admit I had enough green tea for a year at least.
The trip back was quiet and upon arriving at Daegu bus terminal, I could see a whole avenue filled with outdoor sports shops. So Daegu was definetely impressive in term of shopping temptation as well, worth a re-visit.
Back in Daegu, I feasted in bibimbap and yaki udon to satisfy my body with its earrthly desires...Yum! Then I enjoyed the 14th floor room and watched an episode of 뱀파이어 검사 2 (Vampire Prosecutor 2), an episode of 신사의 품격 (A Gentleman's Dignity), and Song Joong-Ki in 티끌모아 로맨스 (Penny Pinchers)...without subtitles. Strangely enough I didn't catch any Daegu local accent.
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